How to Plant an Arborvitae Row

If you’ve ever looked out your window and thought, “Wow, I can see everything my neighbor is doing, and I’d prefer not to,” you’re not alone. Planting an arborvitae row is one of the most popular ways to create a living privacy screenfast(ish), evergreen, and politely vertical. Done right, it becomes a clean green wall. Done wrong, it becomes a row of stressed-out cones playing “who can brown first.”

This guide walks you through planting an arborvitae row the smart way: picking the right variety, spacing it correctly, keeping the line straight, planting at the right depth, and caring for it so it actually fills in like you imagined (instead of like a sparse lineup at a bad haircut convention).

Before You Dig: Plan Like a Pro (So You Don’t Replant Like a Rookie)

1) Choose the right arborvitae for your goal (privacy, wind, or “I just like trees”)

“Arborvitae” usually means a Thuja variety. But different types behave very differently in a row. The most common row goals are:

• Tight privacy hedge: A narrower, denser variety works best. These are the “formal hedge” types.
• Tall screening wall: A bigger, faster-growing variety is betterbut it needs more space.
• Mixed screen: If you want better resilience (and a more natural look), you can stagger rows or mix evergreens instead of planting a single-species monoculture.

Practical tip: When shopping, don’t just look at today’s height. Look at the plant tag (or a reliable plant profile) for mature width. Width is what determines spacing, long-term airflow, and how much pruning you’ll be doing in Year 7 when your hedge decides it wants to become a forest.

2) Pick a site with sun, drainage, and “future-you” in mind

Most arborvitae do best with good light and well-drained soil. Consistent moisture helps them establish, but soggy soil can invite root problems. Walk your intended line after rain: does water sit there? If yes, plan on improving drainage or choosing a different spot.

3) Call 811 before digging (yes, even for shrubs)

Before you dig a series of holesor a trenchcontact your local 811 service so underground utility lines can be marked. Planting projects count. It’s free, it’s smart, and it prevents the kind of surprise that ruins both your weekend and your budget.

4) Decide: single row, staggered double row, or “privacy on hard mode”

Single row is the classic: easiest to lay out and maintain. Staggered double rows (two rows offset like a zipper) can create a thicker screen and help fill gapsbut require more space and more plants.

If you’re in a deer-heavy area or a location with harsh winter exposure, a mixed or staggered screen may reduce “all-or-nothing” risk (one pest, one storm, one bad year). But if you love the clean hedge look, a single row is still greatjust plan your spacing and care carefully.

The Most Important Step: Arborvitae Row Spacing (Because Math Is Cheaper Than Replacement Trees)

Spacing is where most rows succeed or fail. Too wide, and you’ll be staring through gaps for years. Too tight, and you get root competition, thinning foliage, and increased stress (which invites pests and browning).

A simple spacing rule that works

A reliable approach is to base spacing on the plant’s mature width. For a hedge that will eventually knit together, many horticulture references recommend planting at roughly about two-thirds of the mature width (closer for a tighter hedge, wider for healthier individual trees).

Example spacing ranges (common homeowner goals)

• Compact hedge varieties: Often planted roughly 2–4 feet apart depending on mature width and desired density.
• Larger screening varieties: Often planted roughly 5–8+ feet apart depending on mature width and whether you want a tight wall or more natural individual tree shapes.

Pro tip: If you’re planting along a fence or property line, leave enough room to access the plants for watering, mulching, and pruning. “I’ll totally squeeze behind there later” is a lie most of us tell once.

Step-by-Step: How to Plant an Arborvitae Row

Step 1: Mark a perfectly straight line

Use two stakes and mason’s string to create a straight planting line. Measure your spacing and mark each planting spot with landscape paint or small flags.

• If you’re on a slope, view the line from multiple angles. Your eyes can spot a wobble better than your tape measure can.
• For long runs, measure every few plants from the string again. “Close enough” becomes “why does my hedge curve?” remarkably fast.

Step 2: Set plants out (still in pots) to preview spacing

Before digging, place each arborvitae in its pot along your marked spots. Stand back and look. Adjust for sightlines, gates, corners, and that one weird dip in your yard you forgot existed.

Step 3: Dig wide planting holes (or a trench), but don’t dig too deep

For each plant, dig a hole that is 2–3 times wider than the root ball but no deeper than the root ball. Wide holes help roots explore loosened soil. Deep holes invite settlingand planting too deep is one of the fastest ways to stress a tree.

If you choose a trench for a hedge, keep the trench depth consistent so every plant sits at the right height. A trench can make it easier to keep the row aligned, but it’s still crucial not to bury the plants too deep.

Step 4: Find the root flare and plant slightly high

The root flare is where the trunk widens at the base and transitions into roots. It should be visible at the finished grade. If the top of the root ball is buried under potting mix, gently remove excess soil until you locate the flare.

Set the plant so the root flare ends up at or slightly above the surrounding soil level. This feels “too high” to many people the first timeuntil they see how often plants settle when watered.

Step 5: Fix circling roots (especially for container-grown plants)

If roots are circling around the inside of the pot, tease them outward and loosen the root mass. For heavily circling roots, some tree-planting guidance recommends “boxing” or shaving the outer layer of the root ball to prevent long-term girdling issues. The goal is to encourage roots to grow outward into the surrounding soil instead of continuing their container spiral forever.

Step 6: Backfill with native soil, then water to settle

Use the soil you dug out to backfill (break up large clods). Avoid dumping rich compost into the hole as the main backfillyour tree should learn to grow into the surrounding native soil, not camp forever in a luxury soil hot tub.

Water thoroughly after planting to settle soil around roots and eliminate large air pockets. If the plant shifts, straighten it nowthis is the easiest moment to correct alignment.

Step 7: Mulch like a donut, not like a volcano

Apply about 2–3 inches of mulch over the root zone, keeping mulch pulled back from the trunk (leave a small bare ring). Mulch helps conserve moisture and moderate soil temperaturebut piled against the trunk can invite rot and pests.

Step 8: Stake only if truly needed

Most arborvitae don’t need staking in typical yard conditions. Stake only if your site is very windy or the root ball is unstable, and remove stakes once the plant is established enough to stand on its own.

Watering and Aftercare: The First Year Is the Whole Game

Watering schedule (simple and effective)

Newly planted arborvitae need consistent moisture while roots establish. Aim for deep watering that moistens the root zone rather than frequent shallow sprinkles.

• First 2–4 weeks: Check moisture frequently; water when the top couple inches are drying out.
• First growing season: Water deeply as needed, adjusting for rainfall, soil type, and heat.
• Heading into winter: Make sure plants aren’t going into freeze season dry, especially in windy or exposed sites.

Easy moisture check: Use a trowel to peek a couple inches down and feel the soil. Moist soil = wait. Dry soil = water.

Fertilizing and pruning (keep it gentle)

Skip heavy fertilizing at planting time. Let roots establish first. If you fertilize later, follow label directions and consider a slow-release product in the appropriate season for your region.

For pruning, think “light shaping,” not “hard haircut.” Arborvitae typically won’t push new green growth from bare, old wood. So avoid cutting back to brown stems expecting a lush reboundyour hedge will hold a grudge.

Deer protection (because deer think you planted salad)

In many areas, deer love arborvitae. If deer browse regularly where you live, plan protection from day one: fencing, netting, or repellents (reapplied as directed) can make the difference between a thriving row and a row of sad green toothpicks.

Troubleshooting: Keeping the Row Green (Not Crispy)

Winter burn vs. drought stress vs. disease: how to tell

Winter burn often shows as browning or drying of evergreen foliage after harsh winter exposureespecially wind and sun when the ground is frozen. Drought stress can cause scattered browning, often uneven across the row if irrigation coverage varies. Some twig and foliage diseases can show browning that begins at tips and progresses inward, especially when plants are stressed.

Common pest: bagworms

Bagworms can defoliate arborvitae and other evergreens. Early action matters. If bags are within reach, hand-picking before hatch can help. If treatment is needed, timing is keyproducts work best when caterpillars are small and actively feeding.

Spacing problems show up laterso watch for early clues

If plants are too close, you may notice:

• Thinning inside foliage (less light and airflow)
• More frequent browning episodes during heat or winter stress
• Uneven growth where some plants outcompete others

If you suspect crowding, light pruning and improved irrigation can help. But the best fix is getting spacing right from the start.

Quick FAQ

When is the best time to plant an arborvitae row?

In many regions, early fall or spring are popular because temperatures are milder and plants can focus on root growth. Your local climate matters mostavoid planting right before extreme heat or when the ground is frozen.

Should I amend the soil along the whole row?

Focus on good planting technique (wide hole, correct depth, mulch, watering). If your soil is severely compacted or drains poorly, improving the broader planting area (not just the hole) can help roots expand.

How long until it looks like a real privacy screen?

That depends on variety, starting size, spacing, and care. Healthy plants with correct spacing and consistent watering establish faster and fill in more evenly.

Real-World Experiences: What Planting an Arborvitae Row Actually Feels Like (and What Gardeners Learn)

Garden guides make planting an arborvitae row sound like a tidy weekend project: dig, plant, water, admire. In real life, most gardeners discover that the row is less like “installing a hedge” and more like “starting a long-term relationship with a tape measure.” The first surprise is how much time gets spent on layout. People often think they’re being overly cautious by setting a string line and measuring every spot. Then they step back and realize the yard is not as straight as they assumed. A slight slope, a gentle curve in the property line, or a subtle dip can make a row look wavyespecially once the plants grow tall enough to act like giant green exclamation points. Many gardeners end up re-marking their line two or three times because the eye catches things the ruler misses.

The second common experience is the “depth anxiety” moment. A lot of homeowners have been taught to dig deep, like they’re planting a flag on the moon. But arborvitae (and trees in general) typically do better when planted at the correct grade with the root flare visible. The first time you set a plant slightly high, it can feel wronglike you’re leaving it perched on a pedestal. Then you water, the soil settles, and suddenly it’s perfect. Gardeners who plant too deep often don’t see consequences immediately, which is why the mistake repeats. The row looks fine for a few months, then stress shows up in the form of browning, weaker growth, or winter damage. People who get the height right early often report a noticeably smoother first year.

Another recurring lesson is that watering is not a one-time promise. New arborvitae are famous for looking “okay” while quietly struggling. Their foliage doesn’t always telegraph thirst right away, especially if only some plants in the row are drying out faster than others. Many gardeners learn to stop relying on surface appearances and start checking soil moisture with a quick trowel test. It’s also common to discover that irrigation coverage isn’t even: the plants at the end of a hose, near a driveway that radiates heat, or in sandier soil may need extra attention. If you ever hear someone say, “Only the three on the far right are browning,” you can almost always trace it back to water distribution, drainage differences, or winter exposure.

Deer, unfortunately, are a very “hands-on” part of the arborvitae experience in many areas. People who skip protection because their neighborhood feels suburban often change their minds after one hungry night. The classic story goes: the row looked amazing on Saturday, and by Monday morning it looked like a line of green lollipops with missing lower branches. Since arborvitae don’t reliably regenerate from bare stems, gardeners learn that prevention is much easier than repair. The folks who succeed long-term tend to treat deer planning as part of plantinglike mulch and wateringnot as an optional upgrade.

Finally, gardeners often say the biggest win isn’t “fast growth,” but even growth. A row looks best when each plant receives similar light, similar moisture, and similar space. The most satisfying arborvitae rows aren’t necessarily the ones planted closest togetherthey’re the ones planted with realistic spacing, cared for consistently, and protected from avoidable stress. Over time, that kind of row becomes what everyone wants: a calm, green boundary that makes your yard feel like your ownwithout needing a contractor, a permit, or a dramatic confrontation over a fence line.